The selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gourmet, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.
Spanish VAT (IVA) is 7% and is included in all menu prices. If not, it will be stated that prices are exclusive of IVA. Tipping is not a widespread practice in Barcelona but, of course, should diners wish to leave a gratuity, it is always appreciated. In the upscale restaurants, it is customary for one to
leave around €3. Occasionally, a cover charge of approximately €1 is added to the bill but the menu should mention this.
The prices quoted below are for an average three-course meal for one and a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they include IVA but they do not include tip.
Gourmet Agut d’Avignon Tucked away in a tiny street in the atmospheric Barri Gòtic,
Agut d’Avignon is the creation of ex-lawyer and pharmacist Ramón Cabau. Known for his impeccable taste, the restaurant is a haven for writers, artists and politicians; it has attracted diners such as Juan Miró and Yves Montand. Rustic yet elegant, it employs top-quality produce and offers a first-rate wine list. The menu is seasonal, offering regional specialties and dishes such as partridge pâté and roast wild boar with raspberry sauce.
Carrer de la Trinitat 3/Avinyo 8
Tel: (93) 302 6034. Fax: (93) 302 5318.
Website:
www.agutdavignon.com/ Price: €40. Wine: €12.
Alkimia Alkimia is considered one of Barcelona’s best modern restaurants, largely due to the wildly creative cuisine of audacious young chef Jordi Vilà, whose avant-garde twist on traditional Catalan cooking has this year gained him his first Michelin star. Signature dishes include guinea-fowl terrine with pistachio and green apple guacamole, steak tartare served with olive-oil ice cream, and a unique romesco sauce containing strawberries. The stark, pure white minimalist dining room serves as a perfect backdrop both for Vilà’s imaginative cuisine and the ultra-cool clientele. Booking is essential.
Carrer Indústria 79
Tel: (93) 207 6115.
Price: €60. Wine: €25.
Ca l’Isidre Run by the Gironés i Salvó family for nearly 35 years,
Ca l’Isidre is an intimate restaurant boasting King Juan Carlos among its regular clientele. Isidre Gironés presides over the excellent wine list and exquisite food, personally selecting the best ingredients at the nearby La Boqueria market to conjure up timeless dishes, including duck liver pâté with figs, stuffed artichokes or saddle of lamb. The cosy dining room is a charming ‘home from home’, thanks to his wife, Montse. Daughter Núria, who now runs the kitchen, is an excellent
patisera. Her desserts provide a perfect finale to the seasonal Catalan dishes. Booking is essential.
Carrer Les Flors 12
Tel: (93) 441 1139. Fax: (93) 442 5271.
Price: €70-90. Wine: €15.
Gaig Gaig started out as a small family tavern specializing in home cooking in the northern barrio of Horta in the 1800s. More than a century later, it is one of the city’s top restaurants and the recipient of many awards. Master chef Carles Gaig is at the helm, creating brilliant and innovative versions of old recipes, such as pheasant with plums, canelones with truffle sauce and mango ravioli, to name but a few. The wine list is equally impressive. Carles’ wife, Fina, presides over the light, modern dining room.
Passeig Maragall 402
Tel: (93) 429 1017. Fax: (93) 429 7002.
Price: €60. Wine: €18.
Jean-Luc Figueras Housed in the former atelier of fashion designer Balanciaga, the elegant, classically Catalan surroundings (all polished wood, lamps and tiled floors) are almost as outstanding as the food. Frenchman Jean-Luc Figueras creates modern, original dishes, such as fried prawn and ginger pasta in mustard and mango sauce, without submitting to the demands of food fads or egotism. The menu tends to lean towards seafood but meat dishes are also included. Master patisero Jordi Butrón’s sublime puddings are outstanding.
Carrer Santa Teresa 10
Tel: (93) 415 2877.
Price: €60. Wine: €20.
Business Botafumeiro Founded in 1973 by Galician José Ramon Neira in the bohemian barrio of Gràcia,
Botafumeiro has acquired a solid reputation as one of Barcelona’s best seafood restaurants, specializing in
mariscos (lobster, langoustines and oysters), as well as fish and meat stews. The Baroque-inspired dining room is spacious and comfortable, decorated in peachy shades set off by sparkling chandeliers and oil paintings. For the romantic, singers and guitarists are on hand for serenading. An impressive team can help plan business dinners in opulent private dining rooms.
Carrer Gran de Gràcia 81
Tel: (93) 218 4230. Fax: (93) 217 1305.
Price: €45. Wine: €15.
Negro Conveniently located in the heart of the city’s financial nerve center,
Negro encapsulates the ‘less is more’ philosophy embraced by the new wave of Barcelona restaurateurs. Fashionably informal and stylishly decorated in minimalist black and white, it is a world away from traditional, somewhat ‘folksy’ Catalan restaurants. Negro offers an eclectic fusion of Mediterranean and Oriental cuisine, featuring sushi, risotto and unusual salads, served in a cool, cosmopolitan atmosphere. There is live music in the basement on Thursday nights and at the weekend.
Avenida Diagonal 640 (Caja Madrid Building)
Tel: (93) 405 9444.
Price: €30. Wine: €8.
Neichel Neichel is one of Barcelona’s top restaurants, attracting two Michelin stars and panoply of plaudits for proprietor and chef Jean-Louis Neichel’s highly original Alsace-Catalan cuisine. Consommé of black truffles, deer in red wine and honey and lavender ice cream are but a few of the opulent treats to savour. Located in the affluent barrio of Pedralbes, the design is modern and the ambience relaxing. The cool cream and white dining room is tasteful and understated and overlooks a colorful Mediterranean garden.
Carrer Beltrán i Rózpide 1-5 (before Avenida Pedralbes)
Tel: (93) 203 8408. Fax: (93) 205 6369.
E-mail:
neichel@relaischateaux.com Website:
www.neichel.es Price: €55-75. Wine: €15.
Ruccula Housed in the heart of the spanking new, ultra-smart World Trade Center,
Ruccula is a favorite among the Catalan capital’s rich and glamorous. The reasonably priced food, prepared by top-class chefs, is Catalan-based with an ingenious Italian-Asiatic twist. A generous selection of dishes includes fresh pasta salad with langoustines in pesto or chicken yakitori with teriyaki sauce. Designed to resemble a magnificent floating vessel, the WTC is surrounded by sparkling sea views and makes for a luxurious setting.
World Trade Center, Port de Barcelona
Tel: (93) 508 8268. Fax: (93) 508 8269.
Price: €30. Wine: €12.
Via Veneto Since opening in the late 1960s,
Via Veneto has won a host of awards for its high-class Catalan cuisine and exceptional wines. Dishes include exquisite fish soup, stuffed wild partridge or potatoes with purée of
butifarra sausage. Located near the business district of Diagonal, the restaurant contains some of the best private dining rooms in Barcelona, accommodating from four to 100 diners. With its pretty Belle Epoque-style, wonderful food and welcoming staff, it is little wonder that it became one of Dalí’s regular haunts. A mirror, signed by the painter, is on display.
Carrer Ganduxer 10-12
Tel: (93) 200 7244. Fax: (93) 201 6095.
E-mail:
pmonje@adam.es Website:
www.viavenetorestaurant.com Price: €65. Wine: €20.
Trendy Arc Café A recent arrival on the Barcelona scene,
Arc Café is a ‘gastrobar’ run by German duo Thomas and Willi. Hearty Mediterranean, Caribbean and Asian-influenced dishes, such as chicken curry salad and sublime spicy veggie burgers, are prepared in the spotless open-plan kitchen, amid warm, softly lit surroundings and a backdrop of mellow sounds. Tending towards the vegetarian, there’s nevertheless a good selection of meat dishes too. Its location in a narrow, picturesque street near Plaça Reial makes it an ideal pre-club dinner venue.
Carrer Carabassa 19
Tel: (93) 302 5204.
Price: €15. Wine: €6.
El Racó d’en Baltà A favorite among hip young Catalans, this design-led restaurant cleverly avoids the ‘design over substance’ cliché. This is because it combines a modern approach to traditional dishes (such as meatballs with cuttlefish, fish mousse or
turrón ice cream) with low prices, a decent wine list and a fascinating array of bizarre creations by British artist Steve Foster. The upstairs dining room is a relaxing cocoon of gentle greens punctuated with eccentric odds and ends.
Carrer Aribau 125
Tel: (93) 453 1044.
Price: €20. Wine: €7.
Mama Café Microwaves and processed or tinned foods are strictly prohibited in this stylish, fun vegetarian café-restaurant located in the Raval district, just off Las Ramblas. Using only the freshest ingredients, a range of innovative dishes, such as melon
gazpacho, are prepared daily. The use of bold, rainbow colors, recycled materials and laid-back sounds creates a happy and informal atmosphere.
Carrer Doctor Dou 10
Tel: (93) 301 2940.
Price: €15. Wine: €5.
Sikkim Inspired by their travels to India, the owners have transformed this former grocery into a high temple of exotica, complete with an abundance of candles, Buddhas, wafting incense and rich, mood-enhancing colors. The food is nevertheless Mediterranean, albeit complimented by ingredients from further afield, such as mangoes and yukka. Sikkim caters handsomely for vegetarians and carnivores alike, with a decent range of dishes including roast shark, vegetable risottos and homely cheesecakes.
Plaça Comercial 1
Tel: (93) 268 4313.
Price: €25. Wine: €8.
Vildsvin Urban Barcelona meets old Czechoslovakia in this chic, fusion-inspired
cerveceria situated near the Generalitat, where modern furnishings and original 19th-century features are stylishly juxtaposed to pleasing effect. The menu is an intriguing mix of Eastern European dishes, such as Hungarian goulash, and traditional Spanish
platos and tapas. A wide range of beers and wines are also available.
Carrer Ferran 38
Tel: (93) 317 9455.
Price: €20. Wine: €8.
Budget Cantina Machito Even though the decor verges towards the unsophisticated, with its riotous colors and abundance of Mexican kitsch, the food here is authentic and surprisingly good. Many of the ingredients are imported from Mexico and lovingly prepared by the Mexican-born chef. Standards, such as margaritas, tacos and guacamole, make an appearance, as do unusual puddings, such as lime and tequila mousse.
Carrer Torrijos 47
Tel: (93) 217 3414.
Price: €10. Wine: €5.
Fil Manila A simple, homely restaurant overlooking a quiet square near Plaça de Catalunya,
Fil Manila (Barcelona’s only Filipino restaurant) offers excellent value for money. The choice of dishes is vast, with main courses starting at around €4. In addition to meat and fish, there are some appetizing coconut milk curries to be had and uncomplicated but mouthwatering puddings, such as fried banana.
Carrer Ramelleres 3
Tel: (93) 318 6487.
Price: €10. Wine: Unlicensed.
Habibi Of the growing number of Lebanese restaurants in Barcelona,
Habibi is one of the best. A world away from the falafel and kebab brigade, the diverse menu caters for carnivores and vegetarians alike, including excellent houmous and other savoury dips, spicy rice dishes and sweet, succulent Arab puddings to finish. Considering that only organic produce is used, the value for money is almost astonishing.
Carrer Gran de Gràcia 7
Tel: (93) 217 9545.
Price: €12. Wine: €5.
La Fonda Part of a highly successful, upmarket chain,
La Fonda offers Catalan classics (such as
butifarra sausage with haricot beans or the national dessert,
crema catalana) in well-designed, attractive surroundings. An abundance of plants, wood and a gallery create a light and spacious atmosphere. The restaurant is very popular, especially at lunchtime, so booking is essential.
Les Quince Nits (tel: (93) 317 3075), part of the same chain, is just around the corner at Plaça Reial 6.
Carrer Escudellers 10
Tel: (93) 301 7515.
Price: €15. Wine: €6.
La Habana Vieja Retro decor and a plethora of exotic cocktails evoke the exuberant spirit of old Havana in this atmospheric Cuban restaurant, situated in a narrow
passeig near the Picasso Museum. A feast of dishes (such as shredded beef, coconut and cheese pudding, and fried banana) make for a lively and inexpensive dinner.
Carrer Banys Vells 2
Tel: (93) 268 2504.
Price: €15. Wine: €6.
Personal Recommendations Arola Since its opening, the eponymous restaurant of the dazzling Michelin-starred Catalan chef Sergi Arola at the ultra-chic
Hotel Arts has been the talk of the town. Its informal menu is based on the regional tradition of
pica-pica (sharing a variety of different dishes with friends), and includes such tempting flavor combinations as smoked sardines with romesco sauce, tuna carpaccio with
jamón oil, and his signature
patatas bravas with a piquant chilli sauce. The ambiance is contemporary and laidback, with a garden terrace during summer months, and a DJ to entertain the beautiful people every evening.
Hotel Arts Barcelona, Carrer Marina 19-21
Tel: (93) 483 8090. Fax: (93) 221 2018.
E-mail:
info@arola-arts.com Website:
www.arola-arts.com Price: €60. Set tapas menu €45, individual tapas dishes from €9. Wine: €25.
El Convent El Convent is a sumptuously decorated fin-de-siècle-style restaurant, occupying four storys of an 18th-century house in a minute street behind La Boqueria market. Individually decorated private rooms are available in addition to the attractive public dining areas. An extensive menu combines
cocina Catalana and international cuisine, with dishes such as chicken with orange or cod with garlic mousse. Inexpensive group menus start at under €12 per head and include homemade puddings, such as the ubiquitous crème caramel-like ‘flan’.
Carrer Jerusalem 3
Tel: (93) 317 1052. Fax: (93) 302 3112.
E-mail:
rbmesa@softly.es Website:
www.rbmesa.com/convent.htm Price: €20. Wine: €7.50.
El Pla de la Garsa Tucked away amid a tangle of medieval streets near the Picasso Museum, this former dairy and stables has been converted into a cosy, bohemian retreat, retaining many of its original 16th-century features. Antique tiles, an old spiral staircase and low lamps create an agreeable ambience in which to enjoy the wide selection of dishes, high-quality cheeses, pâtés and delicious puddings, such as caramelized figs.
Carrer Assaonadors 13
Tel: (93) 315 2413.
Price: €15. Wine: €6.
Euskal Etxea Otherwise known as the
Basque Cultural Center, some of the best tapas in town are to be had in
Euskal Etxea. Situated in an idyllic tiny square near the Picasso Museum and the wondrous church of Santa Maria del Mar, the restaurant is an atmospheric bar offering a huge variety of tapas, ranging from the most simple to the most intricate creations. Tapas appear around noon and again around 1900, so the best choice is to be had early.
Placeta Montcada 1-3
Tel: (93) 310 2185.
Price: €10. Wine: €5.
Set Portes The building housing
Set Portes is a national monument and has the distinction of forming the backdrop to the first photograph ever taken in Spain, in 1840. Past diners have included kings, politicians and an array of famous names from Alexander Fleming to Ava Gardner. The large dining room is traditionally Catalan, as are the individually decorated private rooms seating two to 80 diners. Its old-world charm and legendary paella,
zarzuela (fish stew),
fidueà (seafood and spaghettini) maintain its status as one of Barcelona’s favorite restaurants.
Passeig Isabel II 14
Tel: (93) 319 3033. Fax (93) 319 3046.
E-mail:
admon@setportes.com Website:
www.setportes.com Price: €30. Wine: €10.
Nightlife:Barcelona is widely considered one of Europe’s great party cities and deservedly so. Things may start slowly with some food and a few drinks after siesta finishes (at approximately 1700) but they soon gather pace and by 2300 the city is buzzing. Friday and Saturday nights are when the city is at its liveliest, although the drinking and dancing keeps going throughout the week. Bars are usually open until 0200 or 0300, while clubs and discos keep going until 0500 or 0600. The legal drinking age in Barcelona is 16 years and the price of tipple ranges from €1 for a small beer or glass of wine to €5 for something stronger, such as a rum and coke, depending also on the type of establishment.
Port Olímpic is particularly buzzing on summer nights, as is
Port Vell, where the
Maremagnum shopping complex bizarrely metamorphoses into a nefarious collage of cafés, bars and nightclubs, open late into the night. In the last few years, bars modernos with music and designer decor have been popular with a young ultra-hip clientele across the city. The trend is to dress quite smartly when going out in Barcelona.
Available in hostels, the free seasonal guide
See Barcelona (website:
www.seebarcelona.com), and the
Guía del Ocio booklet (website:
www.guiadelocio.com), available from newsagents and newspaper stands, both provide information on nightlife in Barcelona.
Bars: Xampanyerías (champagne bars) serving sparkling Catalan wine
(cava) are a specialty of the city. Good places for cava include
La Bodegueta del Xampú, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 702,
Xampanyeria Casablanca, Carrer Bonavista 6, and
El Xampanyet, Carrer Montcada 22. The latter also serves cider and tapas, in vibrant surroundings.
Bar Pastís, Carrer Santa Mònica 4, has the honor of counting Picasso among its former regulars. The artist’s other hangout was
El Quatre Gats, Carrer Montsió 3, a modernista bar with good beer and live music from 2100. The original menu, designed by Picasso, is on show in the
Museu Picasso (see
Key Attractions).
L’Ovella Negra, Carrer Sitges 5, is a favorite as much with the international backpacker set as it is with local students.
Bar Marsella, Carrer de Sant Pau 65, is the place to imbibe an
absenta, a close relative of absinthe. For the style-conscious, some of the city’s coolest haunts include the spectacular
Torres de Avila, Avenida Marqués de Comillas, Poble Espanyol, on Montjuïc, the perennially stylish
Dry Martini, Carrer Aribau 162-166,
Ideal Cocktail Bar, Carrer Aribau 89, and
Mas i Mas, Carrer Maria Cubi 199.
Mirablau, Plaça Doctor Andreu, at the foot of the Tibidabo funicular, is especially romantic, with its sweeping views of the city. Popular
Berimbau, Passeig del Born 17, serves up good cocktails to a background of Brazilian rhythms, while
Oven, Calle Ramon Turró 126, is a hip venue for cocktails, in a modishly-converted factory in the up-and-coming Poblenou district.
Casinos: Gran Casino de Barcelona, Carrer de la Marina 19-21 (website:
www.casino-barcelona.com), is open daily 1300-0500. Visitors must be 18 years or over and carry a passport or driving license. A smart dress code applies.
Clubs: Barcelona’s most beautiful people can be found in
Up And Down, Carrer Numància 179, the city’s most exclusive nightclub, while a younger, more down-to-earth crowd boogie to the latest sounds at
Bikini, Carrer Deu i Mata 105 (website:
www.bikinibcn.com). The split-level
Moog Club, Arc del Teatre 3 (website:
www.masimas.com), in the Chinese Quarter, offers the best of European techno and hosts big international DJs.
Salsitas, Calle Nou de la Rambla 22 (website:
www.gruposalsitas.com), with a well designed bar, restaurant and a dancefloor, is one of the city’s trendiest hotspots, while stylish
Torres de Ávila, Avenida Marquès de Comillas, Poble Espanyol (website:
www.welcome.to/torresdeavila) has long been celebrated for its all-night trance-techno discos on summer weekends. Popular open-air haunts include
La Terrazza, Avenida Montanyans – open in the summer months only (website:
www.nightsungroup.com).
Punto BCN, Carrer Muntaner 63 (website:
www.grupoarena.com) is a popular gay club.
For flamenco dancing, try
Tablao Flamenco Cordobes, La Rambla 35 (website:
www.tablaocordobes.com),
Los Tarantos, Plaça Reial 17 (website:
www.masimas.com), or
Tablao del Carmen, Arcs 9, Poble Espanyol (website:
www.tablaodecarmen.com).
La Paloma, Carrer Tigre 27 (website:
www.lapaloma-bcn.com), is a beautiful dancehall dating from the turn of the century. The band plays to an enthusiastic crowd, with a menu of pasa doble, tango, salsa, flamenco and more.
Live Music: Large-scale rock and pop concerts by international stars can be heard at the
Palau Sant Jordi, Passeig Olímpic 5-7, the
Estadi Olímpic, Montjuïc, and
Camp Nou, Avenguda de Joan XXII. The best mid-sized venue is
Zeleste, Carrer Almogàvers 122, in Poble Nou, which hosts Spanish and international pop and rock groups.
Harlem Jazz Club, Carrer Comtesa de Sobradiel 8, hosts jazz and other live music, daily until 0400.
Jamboree, Plaça Reial 17, is a long-standing and popular jazz, blues and funk venue. Traditional folk music from Catalonia, Spain and the rest of Europe is on offer at the
Center Artesà Tradicionarius, Travessera de Sant Antoni 6-8, which hosts concerts on Thursday and Friday evenings.
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