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Washington is a culinary adventure with just about every type of restaurant imaginable. It is said that the best Ethiopian food in the country is available in the Adams Morgan neighborhood; downtown Washington has peerless Indian fare; while Asian, Mexican, regional American specialties and whatever else pleases the palate can easily be found within the city limits.

The restaurants below have been divided into four pricing categories:
$$$$ (over US$50)
$$$ (US$35 to US$50)
$$ (US$20 to US$35)
$ (up to US$20)
The prices quoted here are for a three-course meal and half a bottle of house wine or equivalent. They do not include sales tax (10%) or service charge.


Gourmet

Galileo
In a city where chefs are celebrities, Roberto Donna reigns supreme. This elegant Foggy Bottom restaurant shows why - the food, inspired by his native Piedmont, is unlike anything else in town. The tasting menu lets diners eat like an Italian, starting with an antipasto, moving on to pasta, like linguine with soft shell crab and marinated tomato, and culminating in a main course like stuffed rack of veal with prosciutto and artichokes and morels sauce. Diners can eat on the plant-filled terrace or in the dining room, which is graced by sweeping arches, or a lucky few can dine in the kitchen dining room.

1110 21st Street, NW
Tel: (202) 293 7191.
Website: www.galileodc.com
Price: $$$$

Red Sage
The Santa Fe-style cooking of this award-winning downtown restaurant knocked DC on its ear. Diners were used to tacos, but nothing as flavorful as the salmon wrapped in spinach tortillas that are found on the menu in the fun and funky upstairs Border Café. The downstairs grill is more serious, serving mains like roasted pecan-crusted chicken breast in a smoked chilli-honey glaze. The weekly changing dessert menu includes homemade sorbets, the most popular being coconut and pomegranate.

605 14th Street, NW
Tel: (202) 638 4444.
Website: www.redsage.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

Restaurant Nora
In a dining room hung with vintage quilts, diners will find some of the city’s most creative dishes. And somehow restaurateur Nora Pouillon does it while making sure that everything (even the pecan tart with bourbon ice cream and caramel sauce) is organic. The menu changes daily but you can’t go wrong with the miso soup or any of the seafood main courses. Those who are unable to get in at this Dupont Circle favorite can try Asian Nora on the edge of Georgetown.

Restaurant Nora, 2132 Florida Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 462 5143.
Website: www.noras.com
Price: $$$$

Asia Nora, 2213 M Street, NW
Tel: (202) 797 4860.
Website: www.noras.com

Seasons
A great deal of attention is given to both the cuisine and the guests at Seasons. Creative offerings change with the season, but all are artfully presented and fresh. Beef tenderloin is a perennial favorite as is the butternut squash tortelloni with truffles. Service is attentive but not intrusive. Though the room is not small, there is a feeling of intimacy. A décor of light beige and forest green is unobtrusive and comfortable. Often, there is live piano music in the background. If by chance the guest is dining alone, the waiter will bring a selection of magazines and newspapers.

Four Seasons Hotel, 2800 Pennsylvania Avenue, Georgetown
Tel: (202) 342 0810.
Website: www.fourseasons.com
Price: $$$$

Two Quail
The most romantic restaurant in town, Two Quail is something of an anomaly on buttoned-down Capitol Hill. Every table seems to be in its own little nook, giving diners the feeling they are in a private dining room. Menus change seasonally but sometimes, gastronomic treats like herb and nut encrusted pork with a peach glaze or salmon in phyllo and Champagne sauce are on it. Main courses are served on plates that do not match, but that is part of the eclectic charm.

320 Massachusetts Avenue, NE
Tel: (202) 543 8030.
Website: www.twoquail.com
Price: $$$

Vidalia
Named after a type of onion so sweet it can be eaten like an apple, Vidalia makes sure that this unique vegetable figures prominently on the menu. The kitchen specializes in Southern fare, so diners should not miss out on the pan-roasted rockfish, duo of Shenandoah lamb or one of the best offerings on the menu, shrimp and grits. The magnolia walls of this warm and cosy Dupont Circle eating place give diners the feeling they are eating in the kitchen of a pre-civil war mansion. The restaurant also has added a comfortable wine bar and offers a large selection of wines, both by the bottle and the glass.

1990 M Street, NW
Tel: (202) 659 1990.
Website: www.vidaliadc.com
Price: $$$$

Willard Room
Early 20th century decor, a multitude of greenery, crystal chandeliers, oak panelling and the two-story ceilings of the award-winning Willard Room set some of the scenes of the film Minority Report. Impeccable service accompanies elegantly presented courses such as the seared filet mignon with foie gras jus.

1401 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 637 7440.
Website: www.washington.interconti.com
Price: $$$$


Business

Bombay Club
Walking through the door of this elegant restaurant is like entering an E M Forster novel. Lazily turning ceiling fans and potted palms call to mind a colonial-era terrace in India. Diners can sample delicious nan breads as they peruse the menu, which includes classics like spice-rubbed scallops and tandoori salmon.

815 Connecticut Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 659 3727.
Website: www.bombayclubdc.com
Price: $$

Georgia Brown’s
Although it was once considered a southern city, Washington has lost its accent. The countrified Georgia Brown’s restores some of that telltale twang with fried green tomatoes stuffed with basil cream cheese, catfish and flavorsome gumbo combining shrimp, chicken and andouille sausage. For dessert, the bourbon pecan pie is highly recommended. Live jazz pulsates during Sunday brunch.

950 15th Street, NW
Tel: (202) 393 4499.
Website: www.gbrowns.com
Price: $$$

Les Halles
This sprawling brasserie, located on the city’s most famous thoroughfare, serves up traditional French fare with a modern American flair, meaning gargantuan portions. Diners could start with a frisée aux lardons (greens with chunks of bacon) and then move on to the city’s best steak-frites. Particularly recommended is eating on the terrace facing Pennsylvania Avenue or in the oak-panelled dining room. Cigar aficionados will be glad to know about the lounge section reserved for stogies (regular cigars) and the once-a-month cigar dinner with free cigars.

1201 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 347 6848.
Website: www.leshalles.net
Price: $$$

Occidental Grill
Housed in the Willard InterContinental, this 100-year-old, august establishment is a favorite of DC’s power brokers. The decor (plush banquettes and dark wood panelling) resembles one of the men’s clubs that used to dot the city. Specialties include filet mignon medallions and crab cakes.

1475 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 783 1475.
Website: www.occidentaldc.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

Old Ebbitt Grill
Situated around the corner from the White House, this comfortable little pub with lots of dark wood and polished brass has served presidents since 1856. The food is not what one would find at a State dinner, however. Visitors come for the humongous hamburgers or belly up to the oyster bar for some of the best bivalves this side of Baltimore.

675 15th Street, NW
Tel: (202) 347 4800.
Website: www.ebbitt.com
Price: $$

Sea Catch and Raw Bar
Though landlubbers can take pleasure in the cuisine at this Georgetown venue that overlooks the C&O Canal, seafood lovers will enjoy it more. Sea Catch’s crab cakes are the best you will find around here, although the seared scallops with spinach and bacon are right up there, too. Friendly service complements the comfortable setting - brick walls, beamed ceiling, fireplaces and a white carrera-marble raw bar. Save room for the key lime tart.

1054 31st Street
Tel: (202) 337 8855.
Website: www.seacatchrestaurant.com
Price: $$$


Trendy

Ivy’s Place
This neighborhood restaurant is so popular that locals sometimes have to wait for all the out-of-towners to finish before they can sit down to the fresh, flavorful Indonesian fare. The real bargain here is the tasty lumpia (a Filipino fried egg roll with minced chicken), which is just US$1.75. This tiny Cleveland Park eating place, enlivened with brightly colored walls, is known for its beef rendang, which features succulent meat in a hearty coconut sauce.

3520 Connecticut Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 363 7802.
Website: www.ivysplacethairestaurant.com
Price: $$

Lavandou
French fare tends to be fussy, but not at this affable bistro in Cleveland Park. The sunny dining room is more Provence than Paris, and the grilled fish dishes shine. Diners are advised to save room for dessert, because here they will find the city’s best crème brûlée.

3321 Connecticut Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 966 3003.
Website: www.lavandourestaurant.net
Price: $$$

Meskerem
The streets of Adams Morgan are lined with Ethiopian eateries, but none as enjoyable as this one. Diners can sit cross-legged on the floor and tear off little pieces of injera (sour-dough pancakes) with which they can sample a wide range of chicken, lamb and vegetable stews. Guests should not forget to sample the homemade honey wine.

2434 18th Street, NW
Tel: (202) 462 4100.
Website: www.meskeremonline.com
Price: $

Oyamel
The airy room, accented with reds and oranges, is quite pleasant and the huge metal butterfly mobile that hangs from the tall ceiling is quite apt, since Oyamel is named after a butterfly forest near Oaxaca, Mexico. Portions are small so that diners can sample at least three different authentically Mexican selections. If you choose the mushroom tacos, seared scallops in pumpkin sauce and flank steak, you will be sated and happy. Service is efficient at this friendly bistro located in the trendy Crystal Garden area.
2250 Crystal Drive, Arlington
Tel: (703) 413 2288.
Website: www.oyamel.com
Price: $$

Ten Penh
Ten Penh sounds like something from Cambodia but the name is actually derived from the address (10-01 Pennsylvania Avenue). Whatever the name, the Pan Asian food is yummy. Things like shrimp and chive dumplings or Indonesian soy glazed scallops leave you smacking your lips. The airy dining room with contemporary Asian ambience certainly reflects Feng Shui touches. A Buddha and a statue of a wooden Mongolian warrior seated on a stallion are handsome touches.

1001 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 393 4500.
Website: www.tenpenh.com
Price: $$$

Zaytinya
The Mediterranean cuisine at Zaytinya excels. In fact, with the multitude of wonderful starters, like havuç köftesi (carrot, apricot and pine nut fritters with pistachio sauce), one just might never make it to the main course. Save room for Turkish delight, a walnut ice cream creation with, among other things, caramelized pine nuts. The decor is simple. Huge windows and white walls accented with lilac surround wood tables with white linens. It is quite popular so it is not always the quietest place to be.

701 9th Street NW
Tel: (202) 638 0800.
Website: www.zaytinya.com
Price: $$


Budget

Ben’s Chili Bowl
The sign over the grill says ’Home of the Famous Chili Dog’, which should give a clue as to what to order at this popular eatery. Formica counters lined with red vinyl barstools are what might be called decor, but then again, posh interior design is not the reason why patrons like comedian Billy Cosby frequent it. Unlicensed.

1213 U Street, NW
Tel: (202) 667 0909.
Website: www.benschilibowl.com
Price: $

Coppi’s
Because they are baked in a wood-burning oven, many of the organic main courses at this eatery have an irresistible smoky flavor. Most popular are the thin, crispy-crusted pizzas, but the traditional Ligurian pastas are really good, too. Diners can start with a mixed salad topped with slivers of parmesan. The decor (vintage photos of bicycle races) is unusual, to say the least.

1414 U Street, NW
Tel: (202) 319 7773.
Website: www.coppisorganic.com
Price: $$

Mama Ayesha’s
Washington’s movers and shakers crowd the simple dining room of this long-time favorite in Adams Morgan. Why? Because Middle Eastern fare does not get better than this. One particularly good dish is the kifta kebab, which is spiced ground lamb cooked slowly over a charcoal fire.

1967 Calvert Street, NW
Tel: (202) 232 5431.
Website: www.mamaayeshas.com
Price: $$

Pizzeria Paradiso
Diners are sure to see the mural of the deep blue sky over this Dupont Circle pizzeria’s dining room, as one bite will have them rolling their eyes heavenward. Whether the choice is a traditional favorite, such as quattro formaggi (four cheeses), or the popular Atomica (tomato, salami, black olives) or Bosco (tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach and red onion) pizza, the thin, crunchy crust is always a winner. There is also a second location in Georgetown.

2029 P Street, NW (Dupont Circle)
Tel: (202) 223 1245.
Website: www.eatyourpizza.com
Price: $

3282 M Street, NW (Georgetown)
Tel: (202) 337 1245.

Spy City Café
Everything except the food is spy-related in this casual restaurant adjacent to the International Spy Museum. The modern decor, which consists of maps of DC spy sites, provides navigation points and allows diners to test their spy IQ. The place is pretty casual. They don’t really serve ’fast food,’ but you can get in and out pretty quickly. Homemade soups, sandwiches, and made-to-order salads are prepared fresh daily. Not-so-common soft drinks such as ginger beer, cherry soda and cream soda are also featured. (Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0800 to 1600, Sat-Sun 1000-1700.) Unlicensed.

9th and F Streets
Tel: (202) 654 0995.
Website: www.zoladc.com/spycity.html
Price: $

Tastee Diner
The last of a dying breed, this 1950s-era diner serves up traditional fare such as burgers, fries and the frostiest milkshakes in town. Everyone should save room for dessert, which is apple pie à la mode. Tastee Diner has located in Bethesda, Silver Spring and Laurel just north of the city. Unlicensed. Open 24 hours.

7731 Woodmont Avenue, Bethesda, MD
Tel: (301) 652 3970.
Website: www.tasteediner.com
Price: $

118 Washington Boulevard South, Laurel, MD
Tel: (301) 953 7567.

8601 Cameron Street, Silver Spring, MD
Tel: (301) 589 8171.

Teaism
The one thing that probably cannot be ordered here is a simple cup of tea. These chic, sleek teahouses in Dupont Circle, Penn Quarter and Lafayette Square serve more than two-dozen different types in their minimalist dining rooms. For hungry diners, there are a small but satisfying variety of meals ranging from curries to traditional bento boxes to ochazuke, a tea and rice soup. Unlicensed.

Dupont Circle - 2009 R Street, NW
Tel: (202) 667 3827.
Website: www.teaism.com
Price: $

Penn Quarter - 400 8th Street, NW
Tel: (202) 638 6010.

Lafayette Square - 800 Connecticut Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 835 2233.


Personal Recommendations

City Lights of China
The premises are hardly prepossessing (cramped tables set against mint green walls) but people crowd into this Dupont Circle eating place for unequaled Chinese fare. Sauces are light, meats are tender and vegetables are crisp and flavorful. Highlights include dishes such as steamed dumplings, beef with snow peas or lamb with scallions.

1731 Connecticut Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 265 6688.
Website: www.citylightsofchina.com
Price: $$

Clyde’s
This saloon-style gathering place with its oak-planked floors and sports memorabilia decorated shelves and walls, is popular with locals and tourists alike. A huge oak 1917 vintage bar dominates its entrance. Narrow passageways connect its several dining rooms. This place is known for its burgers, chilli and lump crab cakes, but the crab tower starter, with seaweed salad, avocado, rice cake and wasabi-sweet chilli mayonnaise, is stellar. Service is efficient and friendly. Open for lunch and dinner. Located in the heart of Georgetown.

3236 M Street NW, Georgetown
Tel: (202) 333 9180.
Website: www.clydes.com
Price: $$

The Grill from Ipanema
The fake palm trees in the dining room might seem like something of a joke but this Brazilian hangout in hip and happening Adams Morgan takes its food seriously. Diners can down an extremely strong caipirinha (the Brazilian national drink, made with fermented sugar cane) before moving on to delicious grilled fish or moqueca á baiana - seafood stews sweetened with coconut milk.

1858 Columbia Road, NW
Tel: (202) 986 0757.
Website: www.thegrillfromipanema.com
Price: $$

Lebanese Taverna
A vaulted ceiling and a trio of arched windows make this one of the loveliest dining rooms in Woodley Park, although other locations are scattered in Virginia and Maryland. Diners can also opt to eat outside under one of the massive green umbrellas. Everyone starts with a mezza, a plate of starters so massive it might make a meal in itself. Quite popular is the kibbeh, a pastry shell stuffed with lamb and nuts.

2641 Connecticut Avenue, NW
Tel: (202) 265 8681.
Website: www.lebanesetaverna.com
Price: $$

Zola
The shadowy spy-like figures that decorate the walls are obviously the influence of the restaurant’s neighbor, the International Spy Museum. Even the door that leads to the loos opens in a strange way. There is nothing strange about the food, though, especially the devilled jumbo lump crab cakes or the lobster rolls, which are downright delicious. Desserts are innovative like Almond Joyful - fudge cake, coconut and brittle. Zola is also known for its fine selection of wine, both by the glass and the bottle.

800 F Street, NW
Tel: (202) 654 0999.
Website: www.zoladc.com
Price: $$$-$$$$

1789
You might be forgiven for believing that you have stepped back in time upon entering 1789. The old-fashioned fireplace, beamed ceiling, map of Old Georgetown and 18th-century pictures, plus colonial furniture, white tablecloths and fresh flowers conjures up the US when it was a fledgling nation. But, make no mistake - the food on the seasonally changing menu is pure 21st century. The classic Caesar salad is very classic, anchovies and all, while rack of lamb with shiraz sauce, the signature dish, is quite delicious. Service is attentive but not overbearing.

1226 36th Street, NW
Tel: (202) 965 1789.
Website: www.1789restaurant.com
Price: $$$-$$$$



Nightlife:

The nightlife in the center of Washington, DC is not so developed as in other cities because few people live in the center of the city. As a result, bars tend to be the busiest in the early evening. Most entertainment is to be found in the surrounding neighborhoods, such as Capitol Hill, Georgetown and Adams Morgan. Opening hours are generally from lunchtime to around 0200 and even later at the weekends, although many places only get going at around midnight. Most bars have happy hours in the early evening where drinks can be as little as half price. There is generally a charge of about US$5-15 to enter most clubs. Most venues expect smart dress with definitely no jeans or trainers. There are often age restrictions, generally 21 years (the legal drinking age) and most clubs will require a picture ID. Many clubs only open from Thursday to Saturday so check in the listings paper, the Washington City Paper (website: www.washingtoncitypaper.com) or the Washington Post entertainment guide (website: www.washingtonpost.com/visitorsguide) for details of what’s on when and where.

Bars: Half-priced beers and appetizers helped the Front Page, 1333 New Hampshire Avenue, NW, win www.washingtonpost.com’s Best Bets 2003 and 2004 Readers’ Choice contest. Another favorite is Capitol City Brewing Co., a microbrewery with a good selection of beers and some food at 1100 New York Avenue, NW and 2 Massachusetts Avenue, NE. The Brickskellar at 1523 22nd Street, NW, boasts over 1,000 selections of beer. There seems to be at least one Irish bar in most cities now and Washington, DC is no exception - Ireland’s Four Provinces, 3412 Connecticut Avenue, provides live music and Guinness on tap. The Round Robin Bar in the Willard InterContinental Hotel at 1401 Pennsylvania Avenue is a popular meeting place for the movers and shakers of DC. Most US presidents have come here at one time or another, and it is the place where Henry Clay introduced the Mint Julep to Washington patrons.

Casinos: Casinos are illegal in Washington, DC.

Clubs: The multi-level Love (formally known as Dream), 1350 Okie Street NW was voted ’Best Dance Club’ in www.washingtonpost.com’s Best Bets Readers’ Choice contest in 2004 and 2005. Fur, 33 Paterson Street, once an old warehouse is now an upscale mega club with top DJs and multiple dance floors. Five, at 1214-B 18th Street, NW (website: www.fivedc.com) has two rooms offering progressive house and trance music or down tempo and hip-hop. Grunge, techno, indie, retro and dance music are all on offer at Heaven and Hell, 2327 18th Street, NW, which has regular live music, happy hours and a famous 80s night every Thursday. The Zanzibar on the Waterfront, at 700 Water Street, SW (website: www.zanzibar-otw.com) has a real mix of music from jazz to blues, Latin and dance. The popular Felix and the Spy Lounge at 2406 18th Street, NW (website: www.thefelix.com) plays jazz, swing, skat and funk jazz.

Comedy: The Capitol Steps, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW (website: www.capsteps.com). Expect witty political skits and songs from these once congressional staffers turned comedians. The Improv, 1140 Connecticut Avenue, NW (website: www.dcimprov.com) has performances by local and national comics, many of whom have appeared on network shows and cable comedy series. From time to time, there are stand-up comedy nights at the John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, 2700 F Street, NW.

Live Music: Blues Alley, 1073 Wisconsin Avenue, NW, is the nation’s oldest surviving jazz supper club. Well-known names have appeared here and patrons can enjoy the show without ordering dinner. The long established 9.30 Club, 815 V Street, NW, attracts an impressive name list of live bands, many of which are international. Trendy Polly’s Café at 1342 U Street, NW, is a favorite hangout for all sections of DC society. The Black Cat at 1811 14th Street, NW is a cool place hosting national, international and alternative live music acts, and Madam’s Organ, 2461 18th Street, NW, in the Adams Morgan neighborhood, features soul food, along with live R & B, jazz and bluegrass music.

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